CHAUTAUQUA’S NATIONAL HISTORIC LANDMARK DISTRICT PLAQUE
THE AMPHITHEATER IS NOT A NATIONAL HISTORIC LANDMARK!
I wanted everyone to be absolutely clear about that. Even some of the press has gotten it wrong. Chautauqua put the plaque for the Historic District on the Amp because it has the highest visibility. The Historic District, as a whole, and the Lewis Miller Cottage are the only two National Historic Landmarks listed in the National Register. The Amp is listed as 1 of 40 contributing public buildings included in Chautauqua’s Historic District in the National Park Service’s National Register of Historic Places Registration Form dated February, 14, 1989 (link here). There are 645 contributing buildings (all the practice shacks counted as 1), plus Bestor Plaza, and Palestine Park, in the 207 acre Historic District. There were, at the time, 4 buildings noted as being non-contributing. So once again if your keeping score at home, it’s 647-4. Over 600 of the contributing buildings are individually owned private cottages, and the the vast majority of them aren’t going anywhere.
Notably included in the Public Buildings are the St. Elmo and the Arcade. Of the St. Elmo, it is incorrectly noted on the registration form that it “was built in 1890 and the hotel was at one time the center of winter activities, but is now no longer open during that season. It has recently been converted into apartment condominiums” (you just can’t use them in the winter?). Of course the entire structure was demolished and a brand new reasonable facsimile was built in its place, because the old one was in such bad shape. It was less expensive and more efficient to build brand new, than go through an extensive rehab. As for the Arcade, that is incorrectly described as having shops on the first floor and dorms upstairs. It had already been re-purposed as condominiums with the exterior remaining largely intact/rehabbed to maintain its original look. So the new St. Elmo, a somewhat reasonable facsimile of the original building, contributes, and the condo versions of the other re-purposed dorms and boarding houses contribute, but a new, better, replica of the Amp doesn’t? Curious indeed. Oh, and noticeably absent are the 1916 version of the Pier Building (a.k.a. the College Club) and the Refectory.
Hall Of Philosophy (L) & Norton Hall (R)
The Lewis Miller Cottage – National Historic Landmark
The following language is from the NPS Registration form (link above) for Chautauqua Institution that further describes the architectural and historical significance of Chautauqua’s over 600 cottages, which is what counts the most in Chautauqua’s National Historic Landmark District designation:
The 19th century was a period of great architectural vitality in America — especially as expressed in the vernacular structures designed and built by anonymous carpenter-craftsmen. Set in the woods and constructed rather closely together, the cottages at Chautauqua represent a wide variety of styles from about 1870 though the 1920’s. As summer residences, these cottages are distinguished by several characteristics. Primarily wood frame in construction, they are sheathed in clapboard or shingles and covered by gable roofs. Most noticeable are the ubiquitous front porches with wicker rocking chairs, a kind of living-room extension which is very American in concept. There are also a number of buildings in Chautauqua that have porches on their second, third and fourth floor levels.
Also seen in abundance is board-and-batten construction. This system employs weatherboards mounted on the framing or studs with the cracks between them filled with milled strips (battens). Andrew Jackson Downing wrote: We greatly prefer the vertical to the horizontal boarding, not only because it is more durable, but because it has an expression of strength and truthfulness which the other has not. The main timbers which enter into the frame of a wooden house are vertical, and hence the vertical boarding properly signifies to the eye a wooden house. Chautauqua has a large number of such “truthful” houses. There is also an abundance of wooden ornament, or “gingerbread,” along the edges of the gables ~ they were called verge or barge boards because they were on the incline or “verge” of the gables to protect the roof timbers from the weather.
As a showcase of late Victorian architecture, Chautauqua is filled with the “eclectic” styles so fancied by Americans. Most of the cottages were designed and built by individual carpenter-builders. Using text books and trade journals, they improvised freely on what they thought were traditional designs, often producing hybrids that combined several styles — Gothic, Romanesque, Italianate and Second Empire. These romantic statements were an architectural vernacular — the “Picturesque” style Americans thought to be the height of fashion. Originating from simple plans — often with extension platforms to hold canvas tents for large families — they are, taken as a whole within the historic district, a magnificent collection of structures embellished with ornament or “wood lace.” The village, with its controlled vehicular traffic and tree-lined brick walkways, contributes to the tirelessness and serenity of the community.
Karslake (L) & Follansbee (R) Cottages
Historic Integrity of a District
The following language in italics is from the NPS website on the Historic Integrity of a District with my comments in bold below:
http://www.nps.gov/nr/publications/bulletins/nrb15/nrb15_8.htm
For a district to retain integrity as a whole, the majority of the components that make up the district’s historic character must possess integrity even if they are individually undistinguished. In addition, the relationships among the district’s components must be substantially unchanged since the period of significance.
The overwhelming majority of the contributing components (cottages and public buildings) haven’t changed in over 100 years and many are in fact, individually distinguished. Therefore they still possess their Historic Integrity. And their relationships are doing just fine, thanks for asking.
When evaluating the impact of intrusions upon the district’s integrity, take into consideration the relative number, size, scale, design, and location of the components that do not contribute to the significance. A district is not eligible if it contains so many alterations or new intrusions that it no longer conveys the sense of a historic environment.
Chautauqua’s intrusions/alterations which are primarily new theaters, an archives building, a guest and denominational house, and some new private homes, do not threaten the “sense of its historic environment”. Many of the new structures are similar in size, scale, and design. A brand new version of the Amp, also intentionally similar in size, scale, design, and location, shouldn’t pose much of a threat either, in the grand scheme of the 207 acre, 645 building Historic District as a whole.
Editors Note: One of the committee members homes is a non contributing intrusion to the Historic District.
A component of a district cannot contribute to the significance if:
- it has been substantially altered since the period of the district’s significance or
- it does not share the historic associations of the district.
Ok, so technically a New Amp, no matter how similar cannot contribute to the historic significance. But we all know it will contribute to Chautauqua in so many other ways for years to come. If you’re still keeping score at home, even with the newer intrusions/alterations there are still over 600 of the original 645 public and private buildings that contribute to the Historic District.
Old & New Back Entrance (Closest to the Athenaeum)
WARNING: Reckless & Superficial Alert!
The following language could be considered as reckless and superficial, but it’s “my opinion” and the Historic Integrity of the First Amendment allows for just that. Please proceed at your own risk.
It doesn’t matter if the New Amp contributes to the Historic District or not. They could beam the current one to the moon and it wouldn’t matter either. It’s just one of 645 contributing structures. From the NPS website re: Historic Integrity. “For a district to retain (historic) integrity as a whole, the majority of (Chautauqua’s) components must still contribute.” Take out the Elmo, the Arcade, the Amp, and a handful of other re-purposed boarding houses, some new public buildings and private homes, and the overwhelming majority still contribute. It is my opinion that Chautauqua is not in any danger of losing its National Historic Landmark District Status because they rebuild the Amp. It’s not like we’ve reached a tipping point, as all these Victorian cottages are getting knocked down in favor of some of the “less truthful” condos that sprang up in the 80’s that most likely aren’t contributing much either. There are 16 Historic Districts in NY State plus a handful that are Parks or Archaeological in nature. Chautauqua’s is the 2nd largest in total contributing structures behind the Hudson River Heritage District (1,869) and well ahead of the Soho District (479). Chautauqua comes in 3rd in total land area (acres) behind the Hudson River and Geneseo Historic District (600). Since they started the National Historic Landmark program in the mid 60’s only 35 properties across the Nation have been removed from the list and none of those were Historic Districts. They were mostly single property commercial and residential uses along with one stadium (old Soldier Field in Chicago), a couple of churches, and four ships including a WWII Aircraft Carrier that was scrapped and a Mine Sweeper that sank in the Mississippi River in 1993.
“As a showcase of late Victorian architecture, Chautauqua is filled with... (and) they are, taken as a whole within the historic district, a magnificent collection of structures ” – The NPS Registration Form 2/14/1989
So even with a New Amp Chautauqua’s National Historic Landmark District designation should be safe for generations to come. That is, unless of course, all the buildings and cottages below the Plaza fall down the hill and into the lake and have to be rebuilt. At that point, all bets are off.